Brogue Style

Clifford (Crockett & Jones)

The Cleverley Shape

A pair of G.J. Cleverley bespoke brogues
and copy of Baily's Hunting Directory from my
beagling days

From Savile Row Style Magazine, Spring 2010 Edition:

As for a defining house style, the so-called ‘Cleverley Shape’ has graced the feet of many through the past half century or so.

Glasgow explains. “When Cleverley was alive, he’d say his shoes were ‘suspiciously square’. That was his terminology. His toe-shape was unique to him. He used to cut the corner off a bit, just a shade.”

What Cleverley’s shoes have also become renowned for is their longevity. Looked after properly, there is no reason why a handmade pair of their bespoke shoes shouldn’t last a man through his working life.

Indeed, Glasgow mentions that ‘it is not uncommon’ for a pair to be brought back for a little care and attention some 25 years after they were made. Shoe trees, diligent polishing and shoe repairs are the requirements to ensure their long life, he adds.

G.J. Cleverley: Bespoke Black Brogues

Black brogues, black heart

I have a thing for fine shoes, if you haven't noticed. The photographic image (at left) shows a pair of bespoke black full brogues from G.J. Cleverley in London. I received them last year. Note the aggressive broguing and fine chisel toe. They sit next to a Brooks Brothers lightweight sack suit in grey pinstripe with a 3/2 roll. The shoes are in pre-polish mode; I let them out of their cage so the Saphir Médaille d'Or Renovateur cleaner and conditioner could soak in. In my own personal Shoe Pyramid, on which I shall expound at a later date, black and burgundy shoes are at the top. Chestnut shoes are nice--don't get me wrong--but in my view they have become a sign of the sartorial amateur, particularly in business settings. Black shoes are ideal for City wear and mark the owner as a man of serious intentions and a 'no-nonsense' approach to things. Which make them perfect camouflage for superfluous chaps like moi.

Fairbanks: Dashing Shoes By Cleverley

If you detect a certain lightness in my step, surely it is because I am wearing dashing shoes. The summer season calls for lighter suitings and a different approach to footwear. One might say, a more elegant approach. At left is pictured a pair of black elastic-sided shoes, the Fairbanks model from the Anthony Cleverley line at G.J. Cleverley in London. The firm refers to it as a galoshed shoe, which I think is a rather unfortunate choice of word, though it is the company's signature style. I am quite fond of it. From my childhood I recall my grandfather, a Canadian oil company executive, in such shoes. In the photo I am wearing a sharkskin suit in light grey and fine charcoal socks, both from Brooks Brothers. In related news, in light of ongoing events in London, I am in the process of organising a band of overseas exiles to jet over to England to defend our favourite clothing and shoe establishments from the invading savages. Because God knows the pussified indigenous inhabitants will not do it themselves. We shall be known as the Savile Row Irregulars, or Admiral Cod's Own Hussars. You know where to find me.

Bespoke Cleverley Brogues

The photographic image (at left) depicts a bespoke pair of brogues from Cleverley in a virgin calf's blood merlot colour. From initial meeting to delivery took approximately 9 months. It was well worth the wait. They fit like a glove, as well they should. I call this pair my "Banker Shoes." The dark blood shade symbolises the psychological blood-letting that occurs when I have to deal with recalcitrant clients who spend money on utterly frivolous things such as sports cars, jets, and (worst of all) hot girlfriends. The sharp Cleverley chisel toe is handy for kicking such clients in the backside and then making up over cocktails afterwards in a tony part of town.

Cleverley Black Brogues

Paul Stuart DB suit and Cleverley brogues with side-gusset and faux lacing

Note Cleverley chisel toe and thick trouser cuffs

Eduard Meier Brogues

Brooks English Brogues

Friday I'm in Brogues

Brogue Maintenance

How often do you polish your brogues? I break out the shoe maintenance kit probably every 6 weeks or so. And this is only for the shoes I wear on a regular basis. Half brogues, full brogues, and tassel loafers. For the others, I provide an occasional wipe with a moist cloth. Only rarely do I apply a moisturiser treatment, to keep the leather strong and supple. Like watering the garden or washing the motor car, shining my brogues is a pleasant activity. I tend to lose myself in fanciful reminiscences. Casual observers may surmise that I am simply admiring the figure of my Asian neighbour's 18-year old daughter, but in reality I am reflecting on my role in the larger scheme of things, philosophically-speaking. In this way we can say that maintaining my brogues to a professional standard is the path to an empyrean consciousness. And that is a good thing, no?