09 July 2010

Congo Dandies: The Religion of the Cloth

Paradise is a Fabulous Suit

For the Congolese Sapeurs, haute couture isn't just an abiding passion, it's a religion.

By Anna Weinberg
Photos by Héctor Mediavilla Sabaté


Their canon of saints reads: Pierre Cardin, Roberto Cavalli, Dior, Fendi, Ferré, Gaultier, Gucci, Jourdan, Miyake, Prada, Saint Laurent, Versace, Yamamoto. A typical ballad runs: “Listen my love. On our wedding day/The label will be Torrente/The label will be Giorgio Armani/The label will be Daniel Hechter/The label for the shoes will be J. M. Weston.” Brussels, their shopping mecca, is referred to in Congolese as Lola, meaning paradise.

These are sapeurs, acolytes of a 25-year-old movement called la SAPE—La Societé des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (aka Kitendi, the religion of the cloth)-—that revolves around the possession of the most expensive, most luxurious, most extravagant fashion in the world. Followers of SAPE wear $10,000 jackets and $500 shoes, but these mostly young Congolese men otherwise barely eke out a living in the rubble of Kinshasa and Brazzaville or the ghettos of Paris and Brussels, washing dishes or washing bodies, and sometimes selling their own.

Cont...

Thanks to D. in Dublin

08 July 2010

My Friend the Mercenary


The Misogynist (Piers Paul Read)

Cuts You Up (Peter Murphy)


Houellebecq (BBC Interview)

07 July 2010

Last Horizons

In recent weeks a number of scenarios and opportunities have been presented to me. An English chum has asked me to get involved with a safari and deep-sea fishing resort project in Mozambique. Another wants me to help start a hedge fund in South Africa. Two American chaps of my acquaintance have recently immigrated with their families to Uruguay. Another colleague is planning to move to New Zealand. Europe beckons, as always, and I think increasingly of picking up a villa in sunny Portugal, Spain, or Croatia, or a secluded mountain chalet in my beloved Germany or Austria. I shall give these proposals serious thought.

Lacrosse Victory Riders

06 July 2010

The Lost Trail of the Sahara

Young Pipe Scholars

Methods of Dance (Japan)

The Art of Clubbability

Are you a clubbable type? I wonder. I ask this after leafing through a book on London clubs in my library, and following a vigorous game of squash yesterday morning. I belong to two clubs: the first, a sports establishment scoring high in the glamour scale, staffed by highly attractive towel girls and frequented by serious professionals, celebrity athletes, gold-digging single women, and rich housewives. The other, a traditional, quieter, more masculine club environment for professional chaps such as moi who appreciate a respite from the glitz.

A visit to either club is always a pleasure. I am naturally at home with like-minded chaps who dress in a tribal style with which I am familiar. Gents wearing madras shorts and yellow Brooks Brothers polo shirts. Khaki shorts and Weejuns. Tartan shirt, tan wool trousers, and thick brown brogues. Older men with sensibly short haircut, moderate sideburns, and aquiline nose. We exchange smiles and friendly greetings, and talk about the stock market. It is an agreeable place.

In truth I am somewhat of a solitary. Not misanthropic or anti-social by any means, but wary of extended human contact nonetheless. I do realise we are social beings; that is our nature. But interaction often leaves me exhausted. Do not get the wrong idea. I enjoy small talk and flirting over cocktails. And I would be thrilled to see you and when we finally do meet I am sure it will be a pleasurable way to spend an afternoon. Sincerity is my yardstick. No, the truth is people tire me. As the years pass I find I have less patience for fools; I am more discriminating in how and more importantly with whom I spend my time. Life is too short to tolerate knaves and cretins.

As much as I appreciate my chums, I treasure my privacy. And here, I think, is where private associations such as clubs play a role as a method of escape. For the modern world presents a growing challenge to those seeking refuge. The private sphere rapidly disintegrates. Traditional societal structures such as family, tribe, and church have been infiltrated, turned inside out, and delegitimised. Individuals, deracinated and confused, are afraid of getting lost in the emptiness if left by themselves, hence immersion in unending stream of information, images, messages. The proliferation of personal electronic communication devices means we are never, ever alone. Even our private thoughts are subject to remote control through self-censorship and threat of informants. The distinction between the private and personal, and the public and political, has been eliminated in favour of the latter, in accordance with Klagenfurt’s Third Allegory of the Forest. The woodcutters swarm the place. There is nowhere to hide from the blades. The searching lights follow us everywhere.

In this context, therefore, one could say the love between a man and a woman, and by extension the family and kin-based clan, because they create a kind of protective sanctuary, are subversive. Have you observed the way a couple in love often create their own special language and behaviours? Certain families are the same way. Love is the ultimate rebellion. It is our resistance. But for these reasons even love itself is under assault. It is being phased out by the market. Human emotions are cheapened by undue expression and repetitive misapplication facilitated by an omnipresent media apparatus. Relations between a man and woman have been reduced to an economic exchange of goods and services or contractual arrangement dissolved at will. In the realm of Eros, the brutal ‘law of the jungle’ prevails. Men have become atomised units randomly crashing into one another and then spinning away again. Under these circumstances love is impossible.

In this area most of all, I should note here, it would be accurate to say that my initiatives have not been as enduring as I had hoped; but it would be dishonest of me to deny that conditions have not lived up to expectations, which is putting it very mildly.

So, what to do? These are observations from a chap out of place, a trad against time, and nothing more. I have had an extraordinarily lucky, privileged life, for which I am very grateful, but it is also one marked by a peripatetic pattern that in certain moments today leaves me pensive and restless. The office routine continues, interrupted by social gatherings, research activities, and tennis matches. Days of wine and codeine afford me brief moments of unthinking pleasure as a dedicated psychonaut, but even these are unremembered and so the procedure is repeated again and again. The process of detachment grows, to such a degree that observers have taken note of it. I sense that my boat is preparing to sail. I have already embarked on a course of inner emigration. At some point the flesh must follow.

05 July 2010

04 July 2010

The Gentlemen's Clubs of London (1984)

The Last Days of Disco (Official Trailer)

Country Club Years

Under my flag I am free

03 July 2010

Royall Lyme Bermuda Ltd.

When I am not wearing Creed, 1872, or Trumper scents, I often reach for a bottle from Royall Lyme Bermuda Limited. I first tried Royall fragrances as a young prep in a Tweed of three colours. I recall finding them at local men's shops in Connecticut and New York. Did Brooks Brothers stock Royall at one time? I wonder.

I like Royall Muske, which remains my favourite to this day. It is subtle enough, I think, to wear to the office on occasion, though I am careful as always to achieve a very moderate effect in light of its potential influence on women, which, along with the trad charm, impressive physique, and deep blue eyes, can be rather considerable. From the website:

"This hauntingly exotic fragrance intrigues with its lingering scent from the grain secreted by the shy Asian male musk deer to attract the female of his species. The Ancients used musk as an aphrodisiac. Royall's is mixed with harmonious aromatics to create its own uniquely masculine allure. Try it and experience the results for yourself!"

Sounds enticing enough, if a little mysterious; some things are better left uninvestigated. In summer months I sometimes switch to Royall Lyme, a light lime scent that goes well with lawn parties and cocktail receptions overlooking the ocean, where you will find that the young brunette hottie who keeps pressing her lithe figure against you will suddenly kiss your neck and tell you you smell good. And isn't that what it is all about?

Algarve: Terras do Fim do Mundo


© Christian Chaize

02 July 2010

Kent & Curwen

vive le dandy !

Sid Mashburn

01 July 2010

La caduta degli dei (Official Trailer)

Luciano Barbera

Tennis: Father vs. Son

BCBG: Bon Chic Bon Genre


tenue correcte exigée

30 June 2010

Preppy Chic



Yuppies: The State-of-the Art Manual

When I was at school, yuppie and preppy were pejorative terms. I can still recall being confronted as a small child by a gang of swarthy young foreign proles in the mean streets of New Canaan for wearing an "alligator" on my polo shirt. In fact I learned to fight in my Lacoste shirts and Sperry Topsiders. After school and university in the 1990s I started a banking career in New York City and then later moved back to London to work in investment management. The yuppies depicted in the image (at left) were still very much in evidence. I was not aware until just recently, however, that an actual handbook had been published on the species. (Likewise it was not until years later that I learned of the American guide to preppies). I never understood why wearing proper clothing, having a job, and sporting a side-parting should be targets for ridicule. Given the nature of those in the creative arts who wrote such handbooks, however, and that of the people who read them, maybe I should not be surprised. Perhaps there is a special name for these people. I certainly can think of a few. Can you?

28 June 2010

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