Yeah, back then surfing involved a lot of heavy lifting. The suits probably weighted more than the boards in use today. Getting smacked in the face by a loose board usually meant a black eye and stitches. Enough time spent in the water and you have the same results as joining a mensur club, only you gotta swim in.
"In every battle the eyes are the first to be conquered..."
- Tacitus, Germania
"One must work in solitude as a man who opens a clearing in virgin forest, sustained by the unique hope that somewhere in its depths, others are working to the same end."
- Ernst Jünger
"I find that I must go handsomely, whatever it costs me, and the charge will be made up in the fruit it brings."
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Yeah, back then surfing involved a lot of heavy lifting. The suits probably weighted more than the boards in use today. Getting smacked in the face by a loose board usually meant a black eye and stitches. Enough time spent in the water and you have the same results as joining a mensur club, only you gotta swim in.
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