26 September 2010

Arcadia Of My Youth

"I want to return to Arcadia...Heiligenstadt, my home, whose forests and lakes are compared to that ancient Greek paradise...the place where my youth will forever run through green fields...the homeland of the Germanic pirate-knight Harlock clan. At the end of a journey, all my kinsmen think of their homeland. We hear the voice of Arcadia's pirate-knight spirit calling..."

Phantom F. Harlock II, Arcadia Of My Youth (1982)

Sailing Antigua




25 September 2010

Futuro-archaïque !





















Forward to the past !

Gucci Pro Banker: Wall Street Style


Rolex Submariner: For Cockpit or Cocktail Bar

24 September 2010

Brideshead Revisited: Taking the Sun

Wall Street By Design

23 September 2010

Ogilvy Style

After leaving Oxford without taking a degree, David Ogilvy (1911-1999) worked as (in his own words) "a cook, a salesman, a diplomatist and a farmer" before going into the advertising business at age 38.

At the time, he said, he knew "nothing about marketing and had never written any copy." And yet he later managed to build the company he founded, Ogilvy & Mather, into one of the world's most successful advertising firms.

He was a master copywriter and his campaigns for Hathaway Shirts ("The man in the Hathaway shirt") and Schweppes ("Schweppervescence") are classics. His books on advertising are still studied today.

Ogilvy represents the true advertising tradition, not the Hollywood version portrayed in the current American televisual programme Mad Men, a silly fictionalised account written by the very Noo Yawk hipsters whose fathers and grandfathers displaced the Madison Avenue elite in the first place.

In the photograph (above), lifted from the cover of his autobiography Blood, Brains, & Beer, Ogilvy is pictured wearing a Brooks Brothers khaki suit with a 3/2 roll and a repp tie. He holds a pair of tortoiseshell spectacles. In other photographs from the period he is depicted wearing a tweed jacket and smoking a pipe.

Pay attention to his haircut: his hair does not creep forward in sideburn form, nor does it cover his ears. Study the photographs and note the way he parts his hair on the right, widely recognised as a mark of creative genius.

22 September 2010

Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps (Official Trailer)

J.Simons: Traditional American Clothes

If you can picture Covent Garden, London in the mid-1980s, you can easily imagine a group of young floppy-haired Barboured Sloanes, perhaps the worse for wear for drink, entering the J.Simons shop for a first look round.

The preppy window display along Russell Street was enticing enough, but the interior of the store was filled from bow to stern with a magnificent collection of tweed jackets, loafers, OCBDs, grey flannels, and multi-coloured jumpers. The two or three crop-haired, vaguely foreign-looking employee-chaps milling about inside the store were approachable and helpful. If the Jazz-pose and Negrophilia for which the shop was famous were on display, we certainly did not notice.

Much of the merchandise looked second-hand, and I'm sure some of it was. One impression that remains with me even today is that many of the clothing items, especially the jackets and trousers, seem to have been designed for men short of stature and small of limb.

Over the years J.Simons became our source for Sebago loafers, Sperry Topsiders, and the odd jumper. And that's about it. The rest of our kit we acquired elsewhere, from Blazer, Thomas Pink, Hackett, Boden, Gieves & Hawkes, Barbour, Façonnable, Polo, or second-hand musty shite picked up at Camden and Kensington Markets. Sam Walker in Covent Garden offered for a time a large selection of authentic clothing items, including retro leather jackets, blazers, and cravats in glass cases in the cellar.

The J.Simons boutique, one soon realised, was in a particularly odd position, but one that made a bit of sense. Representing Ivy Style in the UK, it was an English interpretation of American collegiate style which in turn itself was derived directly from English sartorial traditions. All roads lead back to England. There's no getting past it. And rightly so.

21 September 2010

Berle Madras Bermudas

The Touch Of A Hand

"We can ask and ask but we can't have again what once seemed ours for ever--the way things looked, that church alone in the fields, a bed on a belfry floor, a remembered voice, the touch of a hand, a loved face. They've gone and you can only wait for the pain to pass."

A Month in the Country, J.L. Carr (1980)

20 September 2010

Against Popular Music

19 September 2010

فيروز - يا طير

18 September 2010

Brooks English Brogues

Hackett Interview

16 September 2010

Belgian Shoes New York

































Merci à notre correspondant à New York

The Plumed Serpent (D.H. Lawrence)

"And sometimes [Kate] wondered whether America really was the great death-continent, the great No! to the European and Asiatic, and even African Yes! Was it really the great melting-pot, where men from the creative continents were smelted back again, not to a new creation, but down into the homogeneity of death? Was it the great continent of the undoing, and all its peoples the agents of the mystic destruction! Plucking, plucking at the created soul in a man, till at last it plucked out the growing germ, and left him a creature of mechanism and automatic reaction, with only one inspiration, the desire to pluck the quick out of every living spontaneous creature.

Was that the clue to America? she sometimes wondered. Was it the great death-continent, the continent that destroyed again what the other continents had built up? The continent whose spirit of place fought purely to pick the eyes out of the face of God? Was that America?

And all the people who went there, Europeans, Negroes, Japanese, Chinese, all the colours and the races, were they the spent people, in whom the God impulse had collapsed, so they crossed to the great continent of the negation, where the human will declares itself ‘free’, to pull down the soul of the world? Was it so? And did this account for the great drift to the New World, the drift of spent souls passing over to the side of Godless democracy, energetic negation? The negation which is the life-breath of materialism. And would the great negative pull of the Americans at last break the heart of the world?"

The Plumed Serpent, D.H. Lawrence (1926)

15 September 2010

Oxxford for F.R. Tripler & Co.

Herringbone or codbone, the pattern in this grey wool suit is appropriate for all but the stuffiest situations. This is an Oxxford number I picked up about twenty years ago from F.R. Tripler & Co., a well-known men's store in Manhattan now extinct. For many years it was one of my workhorse suits, especially in the colder months, during the university work placement, or 'internship,' circuit, and for holiday season cocktail receptions. The jacket sports a darted two-button front, while the cuffless trousers are pleated and feature an adjustable waistband mechanism. Can you feel it? I certainly can. Oxxford goes beyond the typical items at Ivy League shops and represents the American take on classic Anglo-style.

14 September 2010

Deep Water (Official Trailer)

quand on est seul (Henri Vincenot)

"Quand on est seul, on est en libre d’imaginer tout ce qu’on veut, on rêve à sa guise, on se sent bien, sans doute parce que la pensée n’est pas polluée par celle des autres, car la pollution commence là."

La Billebaude, Henri Vincenot (1979)

13 September 2010

Guards Officers Off Duty

The Guards, being older than most, are more idiosyncratic than most. An American major, serving temporarily with the Blues and Royals in Detmold in West Germany, was amazed at the number of times the officers appeared to change their uniforms throughout the day. "Officers sometimes spend hours discussing what they are going to wear next day," a Grenadier confirmed in Berlin.

What Guards officers wore off duty used to be considered almost as important as what they wore on the barrack square. Pinstriped, conservatively cut suits, bowler hats, and rolled umbrellas--never to be unfurled, come rain or shine--used to be obligatory. But now the rules are more relaxed, as they are with other things, such as officers beling allowed to use London's public transport system and to carry parcels under their arms.

The officers of the Queen's Guard at St. James's Palace can swim or play squash at one of the Pall Mall clubs around the corner during their tour of duty. But in spite of more relaxed rules they must still walk there in full ceremonial uniform. And military decorum still insists that an officer thus attired may not carry anything else. So, at a discreet distance behind him, the officer's orderly will follow, bearing squash racket, shoes, shorts, jockstrap, swimming trunks, and anything else the officer may need.

The Guards, John de St. Jorre and Anthony Edgeworth (1981)

révolte contre le monde moderne

12 September 2010

Wine & Africana

11 September 2010

Trout-Stalking England

10 September 2010

Elephant Polo Wallah



Fly Fishing Normandy

St. Elmo's Fire (Brian Eno)