Cannot watch the video because its from USA, but pipeline's my favorite Polynesian wave, right after french Polynesia and of course the Mentawais near Sumatra. But of course I cannot surf that, so I be surfing my smaller French Basque waves forever. :) D'you surf?
"In every battle the eyes are the first to be conquered..."
- Tacitus, Germania
"One must work in solitude as a man who opens a clearing in virgin forest, sustained by the unique hope that somewhere in its depths, others are working to the same end."
- Ernst Jünger
"I find that I must go handsomely, whatever it costs me, and the charge will be made up in the fruit it brings."
1 comment:
Cannot watch the video because its from USA, but pipeline's my favorite Polynesian wave, right after french Polynesia and of course the Mentawais near Sumatra.
But of course I cannot surf that, so I be surfing my smaller French Basque waves forever. :)
D'you surf?
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